I wrote this in 1999, when I was there.
I actually lived in this. In Wausau. Some mornings the air was so cold you felt your breath freeze in your nostrils as you inhaled. The moisture from your out-breath just solidified on the hairs and passages in your nose as you breathed in.
It is a very strange feeling to have ice crust inside your head. Dry, crackly and cold, as though your nose-hairs turned to crystal in a moment, scratching and breaking as your nostrils flare.
But the cold, absolute as it was, wasn’t horrible; after all I was in a parka, and could go back inside to the gentle heat of the glycol baseboard warmers any time I pussed out. It was instead a pause, a lacuna in life; it was just a moment when the world, sere and blanketed in white, gathered itself to think about the freshness of the coming year.
Snow drifts under the eaves of my home didn’t simply peak; they curled, their tips curving over like a wave stopped, frozen, in the moment of breaking.
That was Wausau, set in the middle of Wisconsin’s cold Northwoods heart. Milwaukee, on Lake Michigan and below the 45th parallel, was much more humid and considerably warmer; traveling north I could feel the ambient change from wet to very dry, very different air at about 50 miles south of Wausau. The entire tone of the atmosphere changed.
And it smelled only of pine.
Overnight, in downtown MKE, we rarely dropped below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and the warmed sidewalks were never crusted with snow or ice; they were just wet, as though washed by a gentle rain. It was like a Hollywood winter set, for about five months solid. Skyscrapers’ shadows stood sentinel over the most stubborn patches, keeping them slushily crusted with white well into March or even April, even as the grass beneath insisted upon itself.
Wausau was more like a cake, covered in glistening powdered-sugar frosting for a craps’ win of the year.
I liked Wausau. I really did. What made it impossible for me was the daytime duration in winter. Eight hours from sun to sun just wasn’t enough; I rose in darkness, went to work in darkness, went home in darkness. I’m an Arizona boy. I need more light than that.
But I sure do miss the icicles; and one night, in the depth of the cold of the year, I even saw the Aurora Borealis flickering gently in the sky. I watched it for a while, knowing my lover was in my home, in my bed, and I let him sleep while I sat on the patio, shivering brutally in the relentless cold, and enjoyed the quiet majesty.
I didn’t leave everything behind when I left Wisconsin, but I found and lost quite a lot while I was there.
The prose follows the fold.
Read the rest of this entry »